McHenry, ND

Looking south on Johnston Street in McHenry, ND. On the left is the closed Aarestad’s Grocery, a closed bank, and the post office. On the right is the Bucks ‘n Does Bar and the Hunting Shack Cafe.

I recently worked on a New York Times assignment focused on McHenry, ND. McHenry is a town of about 64 people located in the northeast corner of Foster County in central North Dakota. While the assignment covered an unpleasant incident in the town my photos ended up capturing life in McHenry as it is now. Separating the images from the article transforms the meaning of the images into something else, a document of McHenry in May of 2023.

Bob having coffee at the Hunting Shack Cafe.

The region is one of rolling hills, flat lands, and lakes and sloughs, the diverse geography a result of the whims of glacial activity over 10,000 years ago. Farming and ranching is the economy of McHenry. The town was created in 1899 when the Northern Pacific Railroad built a branch line from their mainline at Sanborn, ND. The intention was to continue building on to New Rockford, ND, but it never happened and McHenry became the terminus. Normally at the end of a railroad line there would be a “wye” or turntable to turn the steam engine and head back in the other direction. McHenry was unusual because the railroad built a giant loop that could turn an entire train around. It was believed to be the only one in the country at the time, however they’ve become more common in recent decades. McHenry peaked in business and population around 1910 and slowly declined over the years (though there’s recently been a slight uptick in population). While the town is small it still has two churches, a cafe, a bar, and a post office. Everyone I met in town was extremely friendly and I had some great conversations.

Donald, Wayne, and Rusty, all from nearby Binford, are working on replacing the sidewalk in front of the Senior Center in McHenry.

Aarestad’s Grocery closed in the early 2000s

When the Burlington Northern Railroad, successor to the NP, wanted to abandon the tracks into McHenry in 1981 the town got together to try and save their unique loop. The project was spearheaded by local resident Avis Lowe, who negotiated the BN down from the over $80,000 they wanted for the track into donating the track and leasing the land for one dollar a year. The town acquired a Whitcomb switch engine and NP caboose and began offering rides around the loop in 1983. In 1987 the town purchased the former Great Northern depot in the nearby town of Glenfield and it moved to McHenry to become the ticket office for train rides and a museum. Also on display was a vintage snowplow and speeder shack with hobo carvings. The “Loop” offered rides the first and third Sundays of each month of summer. Unfortunately Avis Lowe passed away in 2010 and the train rides ceased shortly after that. About 2015 everything was auctioned off, including the depot, caboose, and engine. It’s unlikely the loop will ever have train rides again.

The former Great Northern depot from Glenfield that served as an office and museum for train rides on the “loop” at McHenry.

Briss Oil Company, the only place in town to get gas.

McHenry had an independent school starting from the early days of the town. The original school burned down and was replaced by a uniquely designed new school in 1941. The last class to graduate from the McHenry High School was in 1980. After that the school was consolidated with other nearby struggling schools and the building continued to hold classes as part of the consolidated district. The final classes were held in 1992 and the school was then permanently closed. For a time the school served as a private residence, but today is vacant.

A basketball court outside the McHenry school gymnasium

Framed displays of each class that graduated from the McHenry High School on display at the Senior Center

A resident depositing mail at the post office in McHenry

McHenry still has a bar, called the Bucks ‘n Does Bar, and a cafe called the Hunting Shack. The cafe was originally a John Deere dealership before becoming a cafe. Three years ago the current mayor of McHenry, Robyn Sorum, bought the cafe (which had since closed), remodeled it, and opened it as the Hunting Shack. It’s open for breakfast and lunch.

Sue and Bob at the Hunting Shack Cafe

Sue showing Bob photos of her new horse, “Pistol”

The Hunting Shack getting a food delivery

McHenry still has an active Senior Citizen’s center which holds meals, medical services, and houses photo albums and artifacts relating to the history of McHenry. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday meals are offered through a program called Senior Meals, which can either be had at the Senior Center or delivered to a person’s home.

Dorothy preparing Senior Meals at the Senior Center in McHenry.

Models of each building that lined the Main Street of McHenry in 1910 are on display at the Senior Center, where Dorothy is fixing the back of the display case.

The Bucks ‘n Does Bar in McHenry

A deer grazing on the lawn of a house in McHenry

Wayne and Rusty working to replace the sidewalk at the Senior Center in McHenry

Sue looking out the window of the Hunting Shack Cafe

The post office in McHenry

Post office boxes in McHenry

A veteran’s memorial erected by the American Legion’s Carl Bostrom Post 160 in McHenry. The memorial was completed in August of 2022 and dedicated on Memorial Day 2023.

Artwork done by area children for Memorial Day on display in the window of the Hunting Shack Cafe

A tractor passing the ball diamond in McHenry

A pair of Western Grebes in “Lyle’s Lake” east of McHenry

The Hunting Shack Cafe on right and post office on left.